This morning, I decided to play tourist in my own backyard. There’s something undeniably magnetic about Chinatown—the colours, the chaos, and yes, the heat. I hopped onto the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) and made my way down to one of Singapore’s most iconic precincts and oldest ethnic quarters in Singapore. As soon as I stepped out of the station, the familiar humidity hit me, but so did the energy. The streets were already packed with locals and tourists alike, all eager to soak in the sights and sounds.
If you’re looking for a perfect blend of heritage, culture, and mouth-watering food, join me on this walk through Chinatown.
Remembering the Red Headscarves
My first stop was the Chinatown Heritage Centre. Right in front, prominently displayed, stands the statue of a Samsui woman. Seeing it instantly triggered a wave of nostalgia. I recalled the old Singapore drama serial, Hong Tou Jin (Red Headscarf), which I watched when I was just 4 years old.
These incredible female labourers were truly the pillars of early Singapore’s growth. Known for their distinct red headscarves, they were symbols of grit, hard work, and dedication. Standing there, you can’t help but feel a deep sense of respect for the sacrifices they made to build the city we enjoy today.
Secrets of the Streets
Just a stone’s throw away is Trengganu Street. Nowadays, it’s a bustling thoroughfare lined with souvenir shops, but it has a darker past. During World War II, this area was known as “Japanese Street” or “Brothel Street” because prostitution was rampant here. It’s a stark contrast to the family-friendly vibe we see today, serving as a reminder of the complex layers of history beneath our feet.
Walking further, the distinct, pungent aroma of the “King of Fruits” wafted through the air. Love it or hate it, Durian is a staple here. Rows of tables are set up where you can pick your choice and have it opened fresh right in front of you. It’s a friend to some and a foe to others, but if you’re feeling adventurous, this is the place to try it!
Smith Street: From Gangsters to Gourmets
Next, I found myself on Smith Street. Interestingly, this street is named after Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, a popular Governor of the Straits Settlements who spoke fluent Mandarin. He was well-respected by the locals, largely because he managed to resolve many troubles caused by secret societies in this precinct.
Historically, this street was home to itinerant street hawkers. While they provided affordable food, they also faced poor sanitation problems. Thankfully, this street hawking culture has evolved into the clean, regulated hawker centres we cherish today. They are listed in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity 2020. That’s a mouthful, isn’t it?
The Lai Chun Yuen theatre was a famous 800-seater Cantonese opera house built in 1887. This is where Cantonese opera singers held their debuts and rose to fame. Today, it has turned into a boutique hotel – Hotel Calmo Chinatown.
The Breakfast of Champions
Speaking of food, all this walking worked up an appetite. I couldn’t resist stopping for a traditional Singapore breakfast—a meal I eat almost daily.
For the uninitiated, a classic set consists of Kaya toast (crispy bread smeared with Pandan-flavoured sweet coconut jam and a slice of butter), two runny soft-boiled eggs with dark soy sauce and white pepper, and a cup of local kopi (coffee). We can eat this in the morning, afternoon, or at night. It’s the ultimate comfort food.
Want to learn how to order like a pro? Check out our video guide here: How to Order Kopi in Singapore
Art on the Walls
One of the highlights of my morning was spotting a mural by the well-known local artist, Mr Yip Yew Chong. Titled “My Chinatown Home,” this piece is my personal favourite among his many works.
Yip Yew Chong was an accountant for 25 years before becoming a full-time artist in 2018. He has painted over 80 murals across Singapore, but only 9 are located here in Chinatown. His art captures the essence of a bygone era so perfectly, and his nostalgic memories as a. kid. If you’d like to hunt down the rest of his masterpieces, leave a comment below, and I’ll happily point you in the right direction!
A Tale of Two Temples
Religious harmony is a hallmark of Singapore, and nowhere is this more evident than on South Bridge Road. First, I entered the Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, built way back in 1826.
Dedicated to the Goddess of Rain, it is also a place where devotees pray for fertility and healing. The towering Gopuram (entrance tower) is colourful and intricate, filled with countless statues, carvings, and paintings of deities. As I looked up, I found myself wondering: just how many deities are there in Hinduism? The sheer detail is breathtaking.
Moving on, I visited the majestic Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Built in 2002, this architectural marvel is dedicated to Maitreya Buddha, the future Buddha. The main hall is awe-inspiring, featuring 100 dragon carvings and 100 Buddha statues that signify the virtues of Buddhism.
The crown jewel of the temple, however, is the Golden Stupa (often referred to as the Golden Supta by locals). Weighing a massive 320kg, it houses the sacred tooth relic. The serenity inside offers a peaceful respite from the heat outside.
Along the same street, there is also a mosque named Masjid Jamae (Chulia) and a Fairfield Methodist Church, thus we call this Street of Harmony to signify the multi-religious society we have today.
Feasting at Chinatown Complex
By now, my stomach was growling loudly. I headed straight for Chinatown Complex, home to the largest hawker centre in Singapore. With more than 300 stalls, the variety is overwhelming in the best way possible.
You could visit this place daily for a month and still not finish trying everything! This is also where you can find affordable Michelin-starred meals—just keep an eye out for the red Michelin stickers on the stall fronts. From claypot rice to iconic chicken rice, it’s a foodie’s paradise. Mind you, when it’s crowded, you had better snatch a seat quickly when you see one!
Explore More Heritage
My morning in Chinatown was a sweaty but fulfilling reminder of how rich our local culture is. Whether you’re a history buff, a food lover, or just someone who loves a good walk, Chinatown has something for you.
If you want a deeper dive into these stories, I highly recommend checking out our friendly guide, Adeline. She runs an amazing heritage tour that uncovers even more hidden gems.
Book your private guided tour with UNESCO food tastings here: Singapore Private Guided Tour with Adeline
Or, feel free to email us today for more details. See you on the streets!
