I set my alarm for 4 AM with a single goal: witness the sunrise. Getting out of a warm bed into the 2-degree chill was a jolt, but the silence that greeted me was worth it. It was a quiet that felt different, a surreal calm before the day began. I was the first one … Continue reading 12-Day Self-Drive Adventure in Aomori & Hokkaido: Day 3, Free Flow Sake and Best Oyakodon